Match of the week

Braised Manx Loaghtan mutton and Crozes-Hermitage

Braised Manx Loaghtan mutton and Crozes-Hermitage

Last Friday I attended the Soil Association annual Organic Awards lunch at Bordeaux Quay in Bristol. The menu was based on the winning ingredients which in the case of the main course was Langley Chase organic mutton served with chard and spelt risotto.

The Langley Chase sheep are a rare multi-horned primitve breed, Manx Loaghtan (right) which have a delicate gamey flavour and proved a brilliant match with the award-winning wine, which I helped to judge: a deliciously spicy Crozes-Hermitage 'Contreforts Du Delta' 2007. It's listed by Vinceremos at £12.99 but is currently out of stock which I suppose is gratifying but frustrating if you're inspired by the award and want to try it. Another Crozes - or a St-Joseph - should work as well.

Picture by Luke Potter

Warm fig and almond pudding with Château Coutet Barsac 1996

Warm fig and almond pudding with Château Coutet Barsac 1996

I think I’m a bit fixated with figs at the moment. Last week’s match of the week involved them and so does this week’s but it’s a totally different affair.

This is a dessert I had at Bordeaux Quay in Bristol on Friday on the eve of the annual Organic Food Festival. It was a bit like an Eve’s pudding - cooked fruit with a sponge topping - with a modern twist. The ‘sponge’ I think included semolina and I suspect the figs were cooked with red wine.

It was paired on the menu with a glass of Vidal Ice wine from Canada but our host, BQ's chef Barny Haughton, treated the table to a bottle of Château Coutet Barsac 1996 which was quite perfect, with that distinctive, sensual, slightly musky taste of noble rot and faint whiff of grilled hazelnuts. It would, of course, have tasted wonderful with all kinds of dishes - a classic apple or pear tart, poached peaches or nectarines, foie gras or Roquefort but this was a really glorious pairing.

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